Bunny’s 7 Days in Bequia

Port Elizabeth
Hiking Ma Peggy

Before visiting Bequia, Bunny had been curious about this small island in St. Vincent and the Grenadines for a while. Many of her friends in Carriacou had been raving about Bequia, saying that she would love it. Even though Bunny is convinced that she lives on the best island in the Caribbean, surely there would be no harm in checking out the island that some claim is the second best?

Bequia What?

Bequia, much like Carriacou, is a small Caribbean island located in the chain of islands called the Grenadines. Bequia is just under 7 square miles in size and has a population of around 5000 people. Much like Carriacou, it is a gorgeous, laid-back, mostly undiscovered Caribbean holiday paradise that few people know about.

Turquoise waters

What to Do in Bequia for a Week?

Bunny had approximately one week to explore Bequia when she visited. She was full of plans and ideas before her trip but ended up spending her holiday in a slightly random way, just doing whatever she felt like doing at the time. It turned out that was the perfect way to tackle Bequia.

Bequia sunset

Day 1 - Hello, Beautiful Bequia

The Bunnies (yes, Mr. Bunny was there too, but he is, obviously, a secondary character here) arrived in Bequia from Union Island. They took the early morning fast ferry Jaden Sun, aka the vomit comet, to reach Bequia. The journey was comfortable (despite the nickname) and lasted just under two hours.

Upon arrival in Port Elizabeth, the cute capital of Bequia, they jumped right into one of those Bequia specials: an open-back pick-up truck taxi that was an instant hit with Bunny (yes, Carriacou should totally have those too!).

The Bunnies had decided to stay at Keegan’s Beachside Hotel in Bequia. It had a great location right on the Lower Bay beach and very attractive pricing for the usually overinflated Christmas period. Bunny found the location to be ideal and the staff at Keegan’s to be very friendly.

Bunny's room in Keegan's
Bunny's hotel in Bequia

The Bunnies started their stay with a big breakfast right by the sea. They were grateful for an early check-in at 10am and celebrated with a little nap in the room. The room was as expected (i.e. not luxurious), quite small but comfortable and very clean.

Bunny at Lower Bay
Lower Bay

Next, the Bunnies went to check out the beach, Lower Bay, which was absolutely gorgeous and deserted - a winning combination for Bunny. They walked along the Belmont Walkway & Princess Margaret Trail (another idea Carriacou should adopt) to Princess Margaret Beach, another beautiful, long stretch of white sand with barely any visitors in sight. Bunny was starting to like Bequia more and more.

Jack’s Beach Bar on Princess Margaret Beach was the Bunnies’ next stop. This beach bar has cute decor and veggie burgers on the menu so there was no way Bunny could walk past it without sampling the fare. Bunny deemed it suitably delectable.

Another gorgeous beach
Refreshing drink at Jack's

Afterwards, the Bunnies ventured on to the nicest part of the Belmont Walkway, with stairs going up and down right next to the sea wall, offering great views towards Port Elizabeth. Sailing boats were bobbing up and down in the turquoise water below and everything was oh, so idyllic.

Beautiful Bequia

The next obvious stop presented itself soon afterwards: Maranne’s ice cream parlour with delicious, home-made ice cream! Bunny indulged in her favorites, chocolate and passionfruit, before pressing onwards towards Port Elizabeth. The last part of the trail is flat and lined with restaurants, small hotels, dive operators and other businesses. It is a very pleasant stroll which the Bunnies ended up doing quite a few times during their time in Bequia.

Belmont walkway in Bequia
Delicious home-made ice-cream

Bunny found Port Elizabeth itself cute and colorful. There were a couple of handy shops, including a yacht provisions shop, where they could buy goodies for their planned beach picnic dinner that evening. Bunny was mightily impressed that Bequia even had vegan cheese! Sadly, Carriacou is not quite that advanced yet…

Another open-back taxi ride back to the hotel, some more liming and swimming on the beach, followed by a gorgeous beach picnic just before sunset and their first day in Bequia had been a resounding success.

Bunny picnic
Sunset view

Day 2 - Hike It Is

Bunny had planned to join a yoga session at the pavilion directly opposite Keegan’s the next morning but, mysteriously, she ended up eating a sumptuous breakfast at nearby Provision Bequia instead. Mr. Bunny must have tricked her somehow…

Vegetarian breakfast

Provision was a new, delightful restaurant in Lower Bay with a very vegetarian friendly menu. Bunny had already reserved dinner there for later in the week but was also quick to jump on the breakfast offer when she saw it online. In fact, Provision only started serving breakfasts on the exact day so the Bunnies were actually their very first breakfast customers. And the breakfast was very, very good!

After breakfast, it was time to hike. Long before their trip, Bunny had decided that they would do the Ma Peggy hike in Bequia. Mr. Bunny had no choice other than to comply. So they took a taxi to the south side of island where the trail was supposed to start. Except there was no real trail and they couldn’t find the trailhead. So they started by going the wrong way. Serves them right for skimping and not having a guide with them!

Atlantic coast
Take the path here (Bunny didn't)

Miraculously, both Bunnies were in a jolly holiday mood so this mishap didn’t end up in a massive fight. And eventually they found the right trail and hiked up through dry bushes, open pastures and some steep, rocky terrain towards the summit.

Ma Peggy hiking view
Posing at Ma Peggy

The summit, Ma Peggy Rock, is Bequia’s highest point at 880ft. It offers tremendous 360- degree views over the island and the small strip of an airport below. The Bunnies were mesmerised and ended up spending quite a bit of time on top, taking in the amazing panorama.

Incredible view

After descending the same way, Bunny managed to convince Mr. Bunny to walk back to Friendship Bay along the road. It was an easy stroll, mostly downhill. At Friendship Bay, they checked out Bequia Beach Hotel (it looked quite nice) and the long, wide Friendship Bay Beach.

Eastern coast
Bequia Beach Hotel

After a short taxi ride back to Lower Bay, the Bunnies enjoyed some beach time before heading out for dinner. They walked to Princess Margaret beach and enjoyed some ice-cold pre-dinner beers at The Original Lion’s Den while chatting with its interesting local owner.

Princess Margaret Beach
Sampling the local beer

Dinner was at Mac's Pizza & Kitchen on the Belmont Walkway. It’s a Bequia institution and very popular, but the Bunnies found their pizza a bit underwhelming. Perhaps they just ordered the wrong pizza on the wrong day? Well, at least the ambience was nice and the sunset by the sea was beautiful. Life is good if your biggest complaint is about the pizza.

Bequia sunset

Day 3 - Another Hike, You Said?

The next morning, bright and early, the Bunnies hopped on another taxi and drove to Park Bay at the other end of the island. They were dropped off outside the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. This is a sanctuary founded by a local fisherman Orton King in 1995 to assist in the conservation of the endangered hawksbill turtle. Since then, over 800 turtles have been released back to the ocean after they’ve been reared to the age of 5 to improve their chances of survival at sea.

Bequia's open-back taxi
Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary

Bunny, who has very strict views about (not) visiting any establishments where animals are kept in captivity, found the facility a bit grim. It may have been set up with good intentions - after all, these beautiful creatures are still hunted for their meat, eggs and shells around the Caribbean so something needs to be done to ensure their survival - but the current state of affairs was not inspiring. Bunny would urge others not to visit this facility but try and find other ways to support efforts to help turtles in the wild such as donating to Ocean Spirits.

Stunning coastline
Bunny posing in Bequia

Afterwards, the Bunnies walked along Bequia’s gorgeous Atlantic coastline. To be honest, Bunny found it much prettier than the Atlantic coast of Carriacou. There were several pretty beaches along the way, lined with high palm trees and surrounded by turquoise waters.

Beautiful Bequia
Atlantic coast

When they arrived at the crossroads to Spring Estate, Bunny wanted to do the hike to Springview. She had done some research in advance and was expecting a nice view from the top.

Only it was scorching hot, there was no shade and it was a steep uphill all the way. Mr. Bunny was not amused. He was lured into hiking at mid-day heat with promises of a “real short trail” and “cold beer” waiting for him at the top. Not so much.

The only way is up!
Gorgeous view

It ended up being a long, hot, strenuous hike uphill - with no beer, or any other refreshments, on offer at the top. Bunny loved it, Mr. Bunny, well, let’s just say he might have grumbled a bit. And then some. But the view was gorgeous! And Bunny also enjoyed gawking at beautiful properties along the way - the area is not called “Hollywood Hills of Bequia” for nothing.

Gorgeous view of St. Vincent

That evening, the Bunnies were rewarded for their hard work with an excellent dinner at Laura’s Bar & Resto. This was probably Bunny’s favourite meal in Bequia. The home-made pasta was simply amazing, the service was great and the restaurant had a really nice vibe, located right by the sea along the Belmont Walkway.

Excellent restaurant!
Laura's is right by the sea

Day 4 - Christmas Eve

The next day was Christmas Eve, the real Christmas, if you ask Bunny. So she had nice plans for the day, starting with an early morning snorkeling trip at Lower Bay. The Bunnies were lucky to be able to walk directly from their hotel to the beach and snorkel right from the shore. It was a very pleasant way to start Christmas.

Lower Bay

After breakfast, the Bunnies headed to Port Elizabeth for some sightseeing in town. Bunny wanted to check out the cute-looking Mauvin Model Boat shop. Their collection of intricate model boats was very impressive. Carriacou is also proud of its boat-building traditions but there are no shops like that in Carriacou, Bunny noted.

Bequia's model boats
Model boat shop in Bequia

She also enjoyed visiting Bequia Threadworksa nonprofit sewing enterprise that empowers and trains local women as artisan seamstresses. Their clothes and accessories were gorgeous.

Cute local shop
Port Elizabeth

Since it was Christmas and everything, Bunny also popped in St. Mary the Virgin Anglican Church, a rather impressive building in town, but only for photos. Bunny is not the praying or candle-lighting type.

Bequia's Anglican Church

The Bunnies’ Christmas Eve afternoon was devoted to liming and sipping cocktails at Lower Bay beach. It was blissfully quiet, gorgeous and relaxing despite it being the super high season.

Tropical Christmas Eve
Restaurant rules

In Bunny’s tradition, the Christmas Eve dinner is the most important meal of the holiday. She had made sure that it would be a good one by making reservations at Provision well in advance. They had a special 5-course tasting menu, with vegetarian options for each dish, and it turned out to be a lovely evening. The food was absolutely delicious (Callaloo Vichyssoise, Garlic Papaya Noodles, Spicy Szechuan Green Beans, Vegetable Curry with Cardamom Rice etc) and the atmosphere was magical. The talented chef of the restaurant, Big Country Joe, turned out to be a great singer as well, so the small number of customers were treated to a really special evening with excellent food, drinks and entertainment.

Day 5 - Christmas Day Beach Picnic

Breakfast by the sea
Lower Bay beach

Christmas Day, the real Christmas if you ask Mr. Bunny (but why would you?) started with a late, massive breakfast by the beach. Then the Bunnies ventured on another leisurely stroll along the Belmont Walkway.

Snorkeler seen from Belmont Walkway
Belmont Walkway

Bunny had reserved their Christmas lunch at Bequia Plantation Hotel. She had found the menu on the hotel’s website and booked two vegetarian options for herself and Mr. Bunny by email.

When they arrived at lunch time, they found a nicely decorated table reserved for them at the beachfront restaurant. Then the waitress brought the menu and the Bunnies were in for a shock. The menu was completely different from the one posted on the hotel’s website, the price was almost double and, most disappointingly, there was not a single vegetarian item on the menu.

Plantation hotel
Beach in front of Plantation hotel

When the Bunnies asked the waitress about these discrepancies, she shrugged, disappeared into the kitchen and then re-emerged a while later, to tell the Bunnies that the menu on the hotel’s website was, in fact, from last year. Right. What could be done? It transpired not much. The chef “could probably make something vegetarian”, the waitress said. This didn’t sound too reassuring, so the Bunnies walked out into the hot sunshine, hungry and somewhat perplexed but then remembered that this is the Caribbean.

For the next hour, the Bunnies scrummaged around the town, looking for any shops that would be open on Christmas Day and sell something vegetarian for their “festive” fare. After some hit and miss episodes, they had gathered a bag full of baguettes, cheese, olives, crips and red wine. Not exactly the gourmet meal they had anticipated but good enough for a Christmas Day beach picnic on Lower Bay Beach.

Bunny's favourite taxi
Bunny sightseeing

Before going back to their hotel, the Bunnies decided to take a little detour with Fat Man Taxi (one of the most trusted taxi drivers in Bequia) and went to check out Fort Hamilton. This fort was constructed in the late 1700s to protect the capital and Admiralty Bay and it offers incredible panoramic views of the coast line and the colourful houses of Hamilton village. And there are some old cannons that make cool Instagram shots, Bunny says.

The beautiful port of Bequia

The rest of the Bunnies’ Christmas was very low key, but lovely. The accidental beach picnic at Lower Bay turned out to be just what the doctor ordered.

Day 6 - Friendship Rose

For Boxing Day, Bunny had reserved a real treat: a full day sailing trip to Mustique onboard Friendship Rose, a classic Caribbean schooner.

Stylish old ship

The Bunnies started the day with an early morning stroll to town where Friendship Rose was waiting for its guests. It was a glorious sight basking in the morning sun in Port Elizabeth’s harbour. And it turned out to be just a handful of people on Bunny’s trip which gave everyone plenty of space to explore and enjoy the beautiful ship.

Old schooner in Bequia
Breakfast on the ship

A nice breakfast of fresh croissants, cinnamon rolls (yum!), coffee, orange juice and fruit were served on board before setting off. Then the sailing started, first along the beautiful coastline of Bequia - past the famous Moonhole, and then onwards towards Mustique.

Sailing on Friendship Rose
Bequia as seen from the ship

The sea was reasonably calm that day so the Bunnies experienced a nice sway, but the journey was not too rough. In fact, the sun was shining, the booze was flowing and the scenery was fantastic. The crew was very friendly and capable so Bunny enjoyed the old-fashioned sailing much more than she had anticipated.

Bunny on Friendship Rose
Friendship Rose crew

The arrival in Mustique was a bit of a cold shower though. Bunny was aware of the island’s exclusive status and reputation but she was still put off by the over-eager security guards who greeted them on arrival. They first complained about Bunny’s camera (apparently visitors are not allowed to use an SLR on Mustique? Bullshit, Bunny says), then refused to let people go on planned walks around the island because those areas were “out of bounds”. Not cool.

Since walking around independently was strictly curtailed, the Bunnies were forced to take a taxi tour of the island. It was somewhat interesting. They saw some of the communities, lots of fancy villas from a distance, lots of closed gates and experienced not a very welcoming vibe. The famous Macaroni Beach was the only place where they were briefly let out of the taxi. The beach was wild and beautiful but, again, the Bunnies felt like some kind of (poor) intruders when they walked around for a few minutes.

Famous Mustique beach

After the taxi tour, there was not much else to do than hang out on the beach near the port and check out Basil’s Bar. Bunny quickly came to the conclusion that Carriacou was much better than this pretentious little island, no matter how manicured their lawns and gardens were.

Things started improving when the Bunnies returned to the ship and were served a delicious lunch onboard. Afterwards, they snorkelled around the ship and close to Basil’s Bar, where they were lucky to swim with a number of wild turtles. The turtles were the most pleasant part of Mustique, really.

Mustique
Vegetarian fare for Bunny

Back in Bequia before sunset, the Bunnies were happy with their trip, well lubricated by excellent drinks onboard and ready for bed, basically. While Bunny can thoroughly recommend a day trip on the beautiful Friendship Rose, Mustique is a place she feels no need to ever return to. Let the rich keep (and ruin) the island to themselves, she says.

Super yacht lurking in the background
Friendship Rose

Day 7 - Salty Good-Bye

On their last day in Bequia, the Bunnies had a long, leisurely breakfast on the beach, then packed up and left their luggage at the hotel while they embarked on one more adventure.

Lovely business and delicious salt
Some serious salt tasting in progress

At Christmas Eve dinner, they had chatted with an American couple who were the creative forces behind Grenadine Sea Salt in Bequia. The Bunnies were invited to visit this small business so they hopped on another taxi and went to see how gourmet sea salt was produced in Bequia. They got a comprehensive tour of the beautiful property and the facilities, and indulged in an extensive salt tasting session in the cute Tasting Bar & Shop. The salt is highly recommended, says Bunny, who hoarded jars of it to take home with her.

Grenadine sea salt
Solar-powered salt driers

A short stroll from Grenadine Sea Salt is The Firefly Estate, where the Bunnies had reserved lunch. They were very happy with their tasty veggie burgers and gorgeous sea views at their last lunch in Bequia.

Firefly hotel, Bequia
Beautiful view from the restaurant

Then all that was left to do, was to hop on another taxi, pick up their stored luggage from Keegan’s and catch the afternoon ferry back to Union Island.

Bequia had been truly great!

Where to Stay Bequia?

Bunny was happy with her choice of Keegan’s Beachside. Its location in Lower Bay Beach is excellent and Bunny found the staff very friendly and welcoming. That said, there are also some very nice options, including fabulous villas, on AirbnbThese would be great for families or couples traveling together, Bunny says.

Bunny in Lower Bay
Bunny loved Bequia

Bequia vs Carriacou?

So, how does Bequia compare to Bunny’s home island of Carriacou then?

Bequia and Carriacou are very similar, in that both are authentic and unspoiled Caribbean islands. They are about the same size, beautiful and mostly undiscovered by tourists. Bequia is more developed, perhaps thanks to its proximity to the main island of St. Vincent. There is also a greater variety of accommodation options, restaurants and services in Bequia than in Carriacou. On the other hand, Bequia is a bit busier and more expensive than Carriacou.

Chances are, if you love one, you would also very much like the other, Bunny says.

Gorgeous beach
Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou

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