Bunny Hops Through Ecuador: A 2-Week Itinerary of Mountains, Cloud Forest & Beyond
Ecuador had been calling Bunny for years. She pictured volcanic peaks, sparkling churches, moss-covered forests, along with the usual pre-trip anxieties about altitude, taxis and whether she would end up in the wrong neighbourhood while hunting for vegan snacks.
Last summer, she finally made it happen and what followed was pure magic. Here’s Bunny’s two-week itinerary through one of South America’s most diverse gems.
Day 1: Hola, Quito!
The Bunnies touched down in Quito in the evening, bracing for the high altitude and armed with about three phrases of Duolingo Spanish. Their pre-arranged taxi whisked them into the city and soon they arrived at the charming Old Town Quito Suites. Their beautiful room was spacious, atmospheric and, most importantly, stocked with breakfast items for the next morning. After admiring the thoughtful touches and settling in, the exhausted Bunnies curled up for a restful sleep, excited for the two weeks of Ecuadorian adventures ahead.
Day 2: Bunny Discovers Quito (and Ecuadorian Tango?)
Breakfast in the suite was fresh, delicious, and accompanied by excellent coffee, local of course. Always a good start, Bunny says. Just a few steps down the street, The Secret Garden Hostel conducts a free daily walking tour of Quito’s Old Town. It turned out to be a delightful whirlwind introduction to the capital.
The guide was fun, the group energetic and Bunny found herself dancing to a peculiar Ecuadorian tune while wearing an indigenous mask, being pulled into a rooftop tango demonstration, downing a mystery local shot, tasting vegan ceviche in a tiny “don’t-blink-or-you’ll-miss-it” eatery and doing a chocolate tasting at Yumbos - all in one tour.
Dinner was at Delirium Pizza & Arte, conveniently located on their own street which was ideal given Bunny’s mild nighttime safety concerns in the city centre. A pre-dinner Margarita (the cocktail, not the pizza!) on the Secret Garden rooftop offered sweeping views of Quito at dusk.
Day 3: Churches, Chocolate & Cloudy Quito
After a cloudy start, the Bunnies ventured back into the Old Town with more confidence, thanks to the walking tour. They explored the brilliant gold interior of Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, then wandered back to Plaza de San Francisco for a long, indulgent Minka Chocolate Experience on a balcony overlooking historic Quito. They lingered over spiced hot chocolate, enjoyed chocolate flights and then toured Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco next door.
A leisurely wander followed: searching for an English-language bookshop, strolling the cobbled Calle La Ronda and admiring the old architecture. A late lunch on the Secret Garden rooftop, with good nachos, local pilsener and warm ponchos to beat the chill, capped the afternoon.
Later, the Bunnies took an Uber up to El Panecillo for sweeping views and a sense of Quito’s vast scale. It was eerie, quiet, a little gloomy but worth visiting.
Day 4: Gothic Heights & La Floresta’s Vegan Heaven
The Bunnies spent the morning exploring the soaring, Notre Dame–like Basílica del Voto Nacional, where the gargoyles are not mythical creatures but Ecuadorian animals.
The nerve-wracking climb to the tower was a highlight but not for the faint-hearted, or faint-pawed. Luckily, the views were more than worth it. And the little café at the top made for a cozy break.
In the afternoon, the Bunnies Ubered (Ubers are cheap in Quito!) to La Floresta to discover a different side of Quito. They had an excellent vegan lunch (and cakes!) at Vegano de Altura, admired street art, stopped at Ocho Café for drinks and then enjoyed an early vegan dinner at Tandana.
Bunny fell in love yet again with Ecuador’s many interpretations of vegan ceviche. A quiet Uber ride back and an early night at the hotel. The Bunnies are, after all, seasoned travellers, not college students.
Day 5: Off to Mindo & Into the Cloud Forest
The Bunnies were picked up early for their transfer to Mindo, with a first stop at a shopping centre. Coming from Carriacou’s limited and overpriced groceries, Bunny was amazed. There was so much variety at such low prices! She ended up buying a lot of (packaged) food to bring back to her home island as well.
They visited Mitad del Mundo on the way, both the big monument and the smaller museum marking Latitude 0° 0′ 0″. Both were pleasantly touristy, not overwhelming and definitely worth a stop for the obligatory equator photos. They also made a quick detour to Pululahua crater before continuing to Mindo.
After a simple lunch in town, they drove further into the green, moist cloud forest to reach their Airbnb: the Remote Luxurious Riverside Jungle Retreat. Host Jon welcomed them warmly and the Bunnies fell in love with the place instantly. It was serene, lush, private and almost mystical. On their first night, they enjoyed an excellent dinner, followed by an outdoor bathtub by candlelight and a peaceful evening surrounded by pure nature.
Day 6: Cloud Forest Magic and Homemade Rum
The Bunnies spent the day soaking in the peace and magic of their cloud forest hideaway. Three delicious vegetarian meals were delivered to the cottage, all prepared by their hosts. They wandered along the river, listening to the forest breathe, admired prolific plant life, watched birds and kept hopeful eyes out for monkeys (none were spotted, sadly).
In the afternoon, they hiked up to the hosts’ house for some Wi-Fi and conversation with Jon and Cheryl. Their incredible hosts shared their knowledge about the local flora and fauna and culture, while the Bunnies marvelled over everything they grew in their garden, from coffee to a host of exotic fruit. They even made their own rum!
After another delicious dinner at the cottage, the Bunnies sat by the fire under a sky full of stars, surrounded by nothing but forest sounds. Possibly the most peaceful night of their entire trip.
Day 7: Jeep Adventure & Toucans at Dusk
Another slow morning in paradise, followed by a longer river-edge hike. In the afternoon, Jon kindly took the Bunnies on a jeep tour of the area. He shared stories, knowledge and his obvious love for the cloud forest. The Bunnies listened and learned, enthralled.
Later, they lounged on the porch reading. Bunny devoured Living Poor: An American’s Encounter with Ecuador by Moritz Thomsen — the perfect book for the setting. As evening fell, toucans made an appearance at treetop level. Another outdoor bath, another perfect sleep and half-serious talk about moving to Ecuador.
Day 8: To Cotopaxi — Home of Dogs, Waterfalls & Unlimited Banana Bread
An early transfer took the Bunnies back to Quito, then a shared minivan ride onward to Secret Garden Cotopaxi for three nights surrounded by amazing volcano views and energetic young backpackers. The vibe was youthful, social, lively and a bit like a cheerful backpacker factory - basically everything the Bunnies were not. They adapted.
Their first activity at Cotopaxi was a wet and wild waterfall hike, culminating in Bunny bravely dipping into icy waters. The swim was borderline hypothermic but refreshing.
The Bunnies’ private Hills House, separate from the hostel dorms, had a jaw-dropping view of Cotopaxi whenever the clouds cooperated. In addition, there were delicious meals, cold beer, cute dogs (who excitedly joined all the activities) and friendly staff. Not bad for a hostel, Bunny says, not having stayed in one for the past 25 years.
Day 9: Rainy Weather & Banana-Peel-Loving Llamas
Bunny’s plan had been to do the Cotopaxi Base Camp hike. The weather had other ideas: rain, cold, wind. The Bunnies took one look and decided the ‘lack of gear’ excuse was fully valid and opted out of the hike. Bunny was a bit disappointed, Mr. Bunny hugely relieved.
Instead, they spent a lazy day enjoying unlimited banana bread, coffee, cute dogs and sporadic Wi-Fi access. They fed llamas banana peels (which they adored), drank local beer and made half-hearted attempts to bond with the other travellers.
Dinner that night was unlimited pizza — mango pizza being the surprise hit of the night. Bunny noted that vegans and vegetarians were very well catered for at Secret Garden Cotopaxi.
Day 10: The Big Altitude Hike (aka, Bunny Nearly Dies)
This was The Hike: the 6-hour trek up Pasochoa to 4,200 metres. The weather was perfect: blue skies, crisp air, Cotopaxi shining in the distance. The Bunnies had no excuse not to go.
A group of 20-somethings set the pace for the hike. The Bunnies maintained dignity, humour and steady breaths, invariably lagging behind the main group by a considerable margin. The youngsters proved kind, regularly waiting for the Bunnies to catch up before pushing onwards again.
The altitude made it tough and the climb was relentless. But the scenery was spectacular and the sense of accomplishment huge. Bunny loves challenging hikes (Mr. Bunny not so much), and this one was definitely up there among some of the best.
Back at the hostel, Bunny collapsed in exhaustion, unable to fully enjoy lunch. But after a long nap, she revived enough for a cold beer at dinner before falling asleep again. A triumphant day.
Day 11: Onward to the Quilotoa Region
After breakfast, their driver Marco (who would become a recurring character) picked them up for the long but scenic drive to Black Sheep Inn. On the way, they stopped at Saquisilí Market, which reminded Bunny of her Central Asia days, with vendors offering everything from handmade crafts to hardware items to fresh food and everything in-between. Blueberries were secured (a big deal), and Mr. Bunny found cheap hurricane straps to bring back home.
Arrival at the legendary Black Sheep Inn — an eco-friendly vegetarian lodge long on Bunny’s bucket list. Black Sheep Inn was quiet, cozy and rustic, with a composting toilet. After some chilly nights at Cotopaxi, Bunny was delighted to have a fireplace right in their cottage at the foot of her bed. Dinner was shared with a handful of guests in the rustic and comfortable main lodge, planning the next day’s activities.
Day 12: Quilotoa Crater Magic
The next morning, Marco delivered the Bunnies to the nearby Quilotoa crater lake for the full circuit hike. At 3,900 metres, the oxygen was scarce and the path went up and down a bit more than the Bunnies would have liked, but the scenery made up for every step. It took them five hours to circumvent the lake, with only a few stray dogs for company. It was amazing.
Back at Black Sheep Inn, the Bunnies spent the afternoon recovering in the quirky sauna, accompanied by the inn’s resident black sheep munching grass outside the window.
Day 13: Getting Lost (Almost Happily)
Bunny had promised Mr. Bunny a gentle hike day. The universe had other plans. Outdated instructions meant they got lost repeatedly, but the landscape was beautiful and serene. The highlight was enjoying their packed lunch in the quiet Andean countryside.
Later in the afternoon, Mr. Bunny enjoyed a well-earned massage while Bunny relaxed in a hammock in the yoga studio, reading her book and listening to the wind. Dinner was lively, joined by a familiar face from the Cotopaxi hikes, and fuelled by plenty of beer.
Day 14: A Warm (and Slightly Sniffly) Finale at Termas de Papallacta
Marco (again!) chauffeured the Bunnies to their final Ecuadorian destination: Termas de Papallacta. Bunny had imagined red wine, spa time and steaming pools. Unfortunately, a nasty cold was catching up with her, slightly dimming the sparkle of the experience. Still, she managed a dip in the hot pools and a picnic dinner in bed. Their room was lovely and just steps away from the thermal pools.
Day 15: Spa Day & Goodbye Ecuador
The final morning began slowly, with more hot pools and a lavish buffet breakfast. Bunny was still sick but not sick enough to skip a facial and a heavenly hot stone massage. In the afternoon, the Bunnies transferred to the airport for their evening flight back to Miami, tired but deeply content. Ecuador had surprised, challenged, delighted and enchanted them.
And one thing was certain: the Bunnies weren’t done with Ecuador. Not even close.
