Bunny’s Day Trip to Colonia del Sacramento
Uruguay is a bit of an empty spot on Bunny’s travel map. She is yet to explore the country fully - partly because she is terrified of the Uruguayans’ reputation as voracious meat eaters.
However, earlier this year, she was brave enough to venture out on a little day trip from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, to test the waters for a possible longer visit in the future.
Colonia del Sacramento, or Colonia for short, is located on the Uruguayan side of the Rio de la Plata, and is easily accessible from Buenos Aires by a short ferry ride.
Go Independently
A number of tour companies organise day trips from Buenos Aires to Colonia. Don’t bother with these unless you want to pay extra and enjoy being handheld while exploring new places. Going independently is super easy, Bunny says.
All you need is to have your passport at the ready, buy ferry tickets online and you’re good to go.
Buquebus
There are a couple of ferries to choose from if you want to visit Colonia on a day trip from Buenos Aires. Buquebus was one of the companies recommended to Bunny by Casa Calma hotel where she stayed while in Buenos Aires.
Prior to buying tickets, Bunny read some mixed reviews about Buquebus online but ended up having a good experience with them. Buying tickets on their website was straightforward and easy enough, and everything about the trip itself went smoothly.
Buquebus’ timetable provides different options for your day trip. Bunny found the 8:15am departure the most convenient, returning with a ferry leaving Colonia at 5:10pm. This gave her ample time to explore the old town in Colonia.
Ferry Ride
On the morning of their trip, the Bunnies had an early breakfast and then hopped on a taxi to the Buquebus ferry terminal in Puerto Madero.
Buquebus recommends travellers come to the terminal an hour before boarding. This is perhaps a bit of an overkill but do make sure you leave enough time for the border formalities. Plus, the terminal has some amenities to help pass the time.
Top Tip
It is a good idea to stay somewhere close to Puerto Madero when visiting Colonia from Buenos Aires. Otherwise you might get stuck in the morning traffic on your way to the ferry.
At the ferry terminal, you first check in with Buquebus, then continue upstairs for the immigration and customs controls. Interestingly, the Argentinean and Uruguayan border officials actually sit side-by-side in the same booth and border formalities are dealt with quickly and efficiently. Bunny was quite impressed.
There is a small cafe, a kiosk selling some chocolates and a big waiting area upstairs. People started lining up for boarding some 30 minutes before the departure. Bunny didn’t bother as she didn’t really care where she would sit during the short 80-minute journey.
Once inside the ferry, Bunny found the vessel a bit tired but OK. There was a cafe bar and a tax-free shop onboard but Bunny didn’t bother with either. She did glance at the “special lounge” area (for the more expensive ticket holders) but it did not look very special to her. Save your money on that one, Bunny says.
Bunny’s Impressions
The ferry ride was very smooth, so Bunny had time to read and learn more about Uruguay. Before entering the country, Bunny didn't know much, with one notable exception: she had long been kind of a fan of the country’s former president, José Mujica.
This guerrilla-turned president had attracted Bunny’s attention with his eccentric ways. While in office, Mujica refused to live in the presidential palace, preferring his wife’s dilapidated farmhouse instead, and continued to drive his old battered Beetle. As far as Bunny knows, he was the world’s only self-declared vegetarian-feminist-atheist president, who gave 90% of his presidential salary each month to charities. As a result, he was often referred to as ”the world's humblest head of state”. Now if only more presidents were like him, Bunny thought…
During the ferry ride, Bunny also learned that Uruguay has a well-educated population of three million people (the highest per capita of all Latin American countries), the smallest poverty gap on the continent and many other admirable features for a small country. She was starting to really like Uruguay even before setting a paw in the country!
Arriving in Colonia del Sacramento
The Buquebus ferry arrived in Colonia del Sacramento 1 hour 10 minutes after having left Buenos Aires. Disembarking was a bit of a mess, so Bunny was happy to wait on the sidelines until the throng cleared - she was not in a hurry after all.
There was a little info booth operated by Uruguay’s Ministry of Tourism and Sport in the arrivals hall. Bunny received a useful map and some recommendations from the officials, but declined the tours offered. She knew that Colonia would be a tiny place and totally walkable on your own.
The Colonia old town is about a 10-minute stroll from the ferry terminal. If you turn left after the terminal and continue walking until you reach the old walls, you can walk right into the historic center via the drawbridge gate.
Colonia Barrio Histórico
Colonia del Sacramento was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 at the tip of a short peninsula on Rio de la Plata. It changed from Portuguese to Spanish rule and back again several times during its history. This is reflected in the architecture which combines typically Portuguese and Spanish styles.
Unesco World Heritage Site
The old town, Barrio Historico, was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995. It is a picturesque maze of old cobblestone streets, quaint houses, interesting architecture and inviting little cafes and restaurants.
The housing is predominantly single-storey and slightly crumbling in places. Bunny found Calle de los Suspiros (Street of Sighs) one of the prettiest streets in town but there are also plenty of others.
Top Tip
Bunny visited Colonia on a weekday in May and had the place practically to herself. If you want to steer clear of crowds, summer weekends are best avoided.
Lighthouse and Basilica
Colonia boasts a number of small museums for such a tiny place. The tourist office sells tickets that allow you to visit them all for one reasonable price. Bunny declined the offer, as she prefers to soak up the atmosphere of new places instead of visiting museums. She did, however, check out two of the more remarkable sights in town:
Set above the old town is the 19th-century lighthouse, which offers great views over Barrio Historico and further down the river. The lighthouse was built over the ruins of an old convent and it is well worth visiting for the small entrance fee.
In the lighthouse, and many other establishments in Colonia, you can pay either with Argentinean or Uruguayan pesos which are valued at par. Use Uruguayan currency for better value, Bunny says.
Another worthy sight in Colonia is the Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento. Unlike the lighthouse, it is free to enter. The church is surprisingly modest inside but still a very pleasant place to visit for some cool, quiet contemplation on a hot sunny day.
Vegetarian Food
Despite her initial fears, Bunny was actually quite well catered for during her day in Colonia.
She started with breakfast right after entering the gates of the old town. There were a number of cute little places to choose from - Bunny decided on Deli De Las Rosas. It was an attractive tiny cafe with good coffee and pancakes, pleasant outdoor seating and free Wi-Fi.
When it was time for lunch, Bunny was in for a treat. Instead of the ubiquitous parrillas, she came across a real vegetarian/vegan restaurant in town: Irene’s Colonia. The Bunnies enjoyed yummy veggie burgers and bottles of local beer at Irene’s. The menu was in Spanish only, so Bunny had to make use of her limited language skills, but the food was tasty and good value.
For dessert, the Bunnies tried Heladeria Freddo next to the lighthouse. Their ice coffee, enjoyed on the sunny, outdoor terrace, certainly hit the spot.
Heading Back
Having spent more than seven hours in Colonia, Bunny felt like she had had enough time to explore the place during her day trip. Heading back to the ferry in the late afternoon, she was pleased with her day and had a tummy full of good food. What more can you ask for?
By 6.30pm, she was already back in Argentina, just in time for a nice sunset at Puerto Madero.
Bunny’s Conclusion
If you find yourself in Buenos Aires and want to leave the hassle of the city for a day, there is no better option than visiting Colonia del Sacramento. It is a picturesque place, full of quiet charm and small delights. And it just may entice you to return to Uruguay for a longer visit. Bunny certainly will.
